I especially like the fact that the 48-splined Fit cranks don't have pinch bolts to keep the arms secure on the spindle. Basically, they're just like the Profiles, but a little fatter and more cylindrical with only a very slight taper.
So then came the question: What do I bolt onto my BMX bike now??
I was initially gonna swing for some Primo Powerbites, but then figured for an extra $20 I could save 3 oz and get the better looking Hollowbites cranks. I'd have to buy a 22mm bottom bracket, but I figured that I'll only live once. . .
A quick visit to Albe's (http://www.albes.com/) and a week later these show up on my doorstep:
"Ooh, cranks. Big deal."
Well, the whole point here is to show some pictures that I couldn't find anywhere else on the web when I was making the decision to buy these cranks. Hopefully someone weighing the decision to buy some Hollowbites will run across this blog entry.
Geometry:
The first thing that I was surprised to find out was that the crank arms actually have an outboard cant. For some reason I thought that they were gonna be straight as arrows and not angle away from the frame at all. But you can see that there is a good amount of outward cant:
So I was somewhat relieved there. I thought for sure that my ankles were gonna be banging into the spindle like there's no tomorrow. . . but now I'm gonna guess probably not.
Spindle Spacing:
I had always wondered how close the crankarms were to the bottom bracket shell. Since the base of the crankarm was so wide, did it but right up against the bottom bracket bearings the way some mountain bike cranks do? Was the spindle accordingly short? Or would the Hollowbites use the same bottom bracket cone spacers as virtually every other crankset out there? I got my answer:
You can see the bottom bracket bearings, tube spacer, cone spacers, and sprocket adapter all installed. The crank arms are practically butted up against the square taper shoulders machined into the spindle. Mystery solved: Normal cone spacers, and the spindle runs practically the whole way through the base of the crank arm!
It's worth noting that I had to stick an additional 1/16" spacer onto the spindle to keep my chainring from interfering with my chainstays, but even with the extra spacer installed the arms are riding on waaay more spindle than your normal set of chromoly cranks. . . unlsess you ordered an extra long spindle from Profile .
How do they look:
Once all was said and done, and bolted onto the bike here's what I ended up with:
A couple of things worth noting:
1. The steel pedal bosses are burly! You can kind of see the way they thread into the back of the crank arm.
2. The pedal bosses are T-shapped in cross section, with the flanges of the T on the back side of the crank arm. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that you'd be really hard pressed to tear those bosses out of the crank arms.
3. Having said that in #2, if you end up siezing the pedals onto the arms and subsequently have to really wrench on 'em to get them off you might unthread the pedal bosses. I assume that they'll thread back in, and as long as they're tight you shouldn't have problems with the pedals stripping out.